Aug 20
Mileage: 13.5 miles
Indian Bar: 5120 ft
White River: 4300 ft
I didn't sleep particularly well as I was too wound up about finishing up. I had set my alarm for 0500 and woke up at 0450, so got up and went up the hill for a facilities visit and to grab the food bag. I had some tea and breakfast watching the sunrise and it was spectacular! After that, started packing up and getting ready to go. Also, I ate another meal and left camp around 0650 leaving my camp neighbors in their slumber.
Indian Bar shelter across
the river with the sunrise
I had to cross the river twice leaving camp once via the bridge the other via over a rock bridge and glad I left early in the day because in the afternoon the river runs higher with the melt-off so those rocks are under water. I had to look for rock cairns to navigate through some of the river bed and then headed uphill towards the Panhandle Gap not knowing what really to expect up there. By 0800 it was getting warm and I worked my way uphill and the scenery was really beautiful. I kept turning around to look towards the south and Mt. Adams and for a while I could look down and see the Indian Bar group shelter. Finally, I made the ridge and took a break and took a bunch of pictures as all around me were spectacular views. I kept looking around for the Gap not knowing really what it looked like and kept guessing it was higher up.
Looking southeast to Mt. Adams
Beautiful!
Trail behind me
I kept walking and enjoying the view along the way and finally started a down the trail and crossed a snow field and kept picking up rock cairns to navigate through the area and then started back uphill to the Gap. I then remembered reading that the PG (Panhandle Gap) had some trees by it and there it was right in front of me. Finally, I ran into another guy solo hiker, we talked a bit and I told him about the bear. He was surprised about that! From that point the trail went up and down and I had to cross another snow field which had no rock cairns so wasn't sure which way to go after crossing it, but found some boot prints and kept moving. I then had a long climb up to the saddle heading down to Summerland. I felt good and also felt I was making good time.
Trail heading to the PG
PG in front of me
Trail heading to Summerland
I took some pictures atop the saddle as the views were...no words...I had the mountain to my left, blue lakes with Summerland below me and valleys along with the east Casade Mountains behind me. About this time, I saw 2 hikers coming up the hill and what do you know, it was the brother and sister with the huge packs that I met on the west side. Kelly and Doug introduced themselves and we exchanged stories about our trail adventures. Kelly's pack was much smaller so she must have dumped some stuff somewhere and I told them about the bears. I asked about camp and they pointed to where it was and mentioned that it was a very steep and rocky descent. They then departed for the PG and I headed downhill.
No words!
They weren't kidding on the descent, it was all rock and very slow going for me with my knees aching and watching my step so my ankle doesn't roll. Also, it was hot now and lots of day hikers out and about. I ran into a foursome that I met on the west side and talked with them and they took a picture of me. It is nice going CCW as one of the benefits of the direction is seeing people a second time and see how they are doing. Another benefit is not many people go this way and it is nice to have some space.
Doug had told me to get water before going to camp as there was a stream by the river, so arriving by the bridge to Fryingpan Creek, I dropped the pack and took a break to rehydrate, rest and refill the bladder. After hitting the trail again, I crossed the logbridge over the creek and the river was high. The trail was still rocky, downhill and now slick with water. I just took my time walking to be safe and stopped for pictures frequently. Finally, the rock gave way to dirt trail and I was never so happy to see a dirt trail as I was at that moment. My feet and knees were hurting bad and I began to wonder if I could make it to my car some 9.5 miles away. I crossed small creeks and beautiful wild flowers some that I haven't seen before. I arrived at the group shelter about 1115 but I didn't care that I walked a mile an hour here as this area is so stunning you have to stop and look or what's the point.
Rainer with Summerland
I dropped my pack and noticed a woman hiking in a dress and she was at Devil's Dream, so another person I've seen twice. I walked towards the toilet as the toilet here is a solar powered compositing type. Sitting in the shade was a group of asian women enjoying the lunch of sushi and bento boxes. I just laughed about the fact that they hiked up here with those things in their packs. As I walked by they all said hi to me and got all excited about something. I went back to the shelter and broke out the stove and got some water started for lunch. I had pulled out a chili with rice meal and got water on it to rehydrate it. It was really good!
About that time, a guy came into camp and he looked familiar and a few minutes later the woman he was hiking with. I then remembered meeting them on the west side and the woman starting talking with me remembering me as well for the GPS. They ended up hanging out with me for an hour or so. Again we compared notes and they told me that I gave them good info and that I gave the best tips on the trail out of anyone. That was a nice compliment from someone. Steph and Dave were from Vancouver, WA and pretty much did the same route as myself except they were going CW. They asked about my food so I explained to them about dehydrating and making my own meals. It felt good to sit and eat and take an extended break with my boots off. After an hour or so, Steph and Dave were leaving and heading towards Indian Bar, so we said our good-byes. (Note to Steph and Dave; I've looked for your blog with no luck, so if you ever read this, email or leave a comment so I can contact you guys)
I got packed and ready to go and then the Asian ladies were all standing by the trail out of camp, so they all wanted to know about my trip. A few knew English and translated for the rest of the group and they were all amazed I was hiking by myself and the distance I have walked. They get together to day hike and go somewhere different all the time. An older lady then came into camp with the Asian ladies all excited about her, so with my 15 minutes of fame up, I bid them good-bye and left camp at 1400.
Distances from this point forward vary and the rangers told me it was 9 miles, so that's what I was expecting with the trail signs showing less. I left heading downhill in the heat of the day on a full belly feeling good except for my knees ached and my feet sore, but no worries, I was heading home! I ran into a mother/daughter team out day hiking and talked with them and they took some pictures of me. The trail went down via switchbacks until the second crossing of Fryingpan Creek and into the cooler forest. Steph had told me that the trail was wide, very nice and flat in some parts. She was right and it was a nice hike down but the knees and feet were starting to hurt in a big way and I began to wonder if maybe I should have stayed in camp. Dayhikers passed me from both directions and finally I made to the junction that heads to White River with the sign reading 2.7 miles. I was happy with less than 3 miles to go! I just shook my head as the trail headed uphill. This part of the trail is new and was completed in 2004, so I wasn't too happy to see any uphill at this point. I came to another junction with a trail sign saying 1.7 miles to White River and more uphill. I was cussing at this point as I've just hiked all these miles and have to finish hiking uphill!!!
Actually, after this uphill climb the trail leveled out and was very nice and I was hoping to make it to the car in about an hour. This is the part where the hair on the back of my neck stood up and I felt like I was being watched hoping it wasn't another bear! I couldn't take another run-in with a bruin and up the trail I found fresh bear scat on the trail probably an hour old or so. GREAT!! I kept looking around and making heaps of noise to scare any potential bears in the hood off. I also picked up the pace as the GPS showed me less than a mile away! I was starting to wonder when I would head downhill when the trail headed down just for a little bit and then the trail popped out on the river bed. Wow, I'm almost done!!!!
Heading out of the forest
to the river bed
White River crossing
I followed the rock cairns and trail to the log bridge and my last river crossing. This one was the scariest of them all, as the river was really high and fast being late in the day and the log bridge was different from the rest as you crossed one and had to step down onto another. I took my time and some pictures and walked through the picnic area to my car arriving at 1810. I had just completed the WLT solo and probably walked 95 miles with the trail detours!! There was no big celebration, just an urgent need to get my boots off as both my feet were numb. I dropped my pack, got the boots off and relaxed for a bit. I had a young lady walking through the parking lot take my picture, post hike celebration complete. We talked for a bit and she was working a summer job up at Sunrise and had summited Rainier early in the season.
I got cleaned up, changed and packed up the car and left. It felt weird driving again and I realized how exhausted I really was. Both my feet felt like ground hamburger and were numb and I was worried about that and wondering why as well. I drove to Enumclaw and did something I never ever do, stopped at McDonald's and got something to eat I was so hungry. I sat in the parking lot eating and called both Jim and Dawn to let them know I finished and was on the way home.
Post-hike
I had the next 3 days off of work and just did post hike recovery by sleeping and relaxing. I did stretch as much as possible. I couldn't wear shoes for like 10 days and even went to work with sandals on.
The following week I was back in the gym working out and getting back to my normal routine.
I tried to curb my appetite as I didn't want to eat like I was still on the trail. Last time I did that, I gained a bunch of the weight back, so wanted to be conscious of my diet this time around.
People often asked me 'was it worth it?' or 'would I do it again?' My intial responses were, 'not sure' and 'ask me in six months'. Now after a month, I would answer 'yes' and 'yes' with looking at another go in 2012.
When I arrived back at work, my team of guys had a command post on the wall. I was really touched. They had put pins in the map when I arrived at camp and even printed out my SPOT maps for the all the days. Nothing beats some crew love!!!
I hope you enjoyed this blog of my journey around the mountain.
